Feb 11 2016

Xiao Pangu in 2016

My cousin Zhou Qun 周群 just visited the garden and took these photos today, in comparison with his grandfather’s, in black and white, which were taken over a century ago. He wrote “今天回到扬州曾经的祖宅参观,感谢大家多年来投入很大力量,与我八十年代和两千年初到访时相比,园子很好地保持和恢复了原来的风貌。每一组图中,黑白照片是祖父拍摄于一百年前,彩色照片是我拍摄于今天下午。”

Thanks cous, nicely done!

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Nov 7 2014

Jiangsu 江苏省

An eastern-central coastal province of China. It’s capital Nanjing/Nanking is 186 miles/300 km northwest of Shanghai. According to wiki – Jiangsu is the second smallest, but the fifth most populous and the most densely populated of the 22 provinces of the People’s Republic of China. Jiangsu has the second highest GDP of Chinese provinces, after Guangdong.

The well known cities are


Oct 27 2010

Yangzhou the beautiful 扬州市

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江南 jiangnan means South of Changjiang 长江 the Yangtze River?

I’m from Beijing (and loving it), grew up by the wide ChangAn Blvd 长安街 near TianAnMen, engulfed in the sand storm in the spring time, every year. Although we have the Summer Palace where I went often, as with Beihai Park 北海公园, etc. but there is something special neat about this southern city in Jiangsu province that neither BJ nor New York has. The smallness? The humidity? The tempo? Or simply the fact that I was just a day visitor who was still basking in a semi sedated mind after Xiao Pangu? Perhaps exquisite is to describe Yangzhou as magnificent is for Beijing? In that, I feel Yangzhou is like a 工笔画 gongbi painting (traditional Chinese realistic painting the girlscharacterized by fine brushwork and close attention to detail.) while BJ or NY a 写意画 xieyi painting (freehand brushwork in traditional Chinese painting that characterized by vivid expression and bold outline).

The battery in my camera had exhausted after Geyuan, so I had make do with the crackberry, with only 2 megapixel capacity, an ancient quality.

I had been very lucky during the entire trip for no rain dropped while I was out there somewhere, except the following Sunday we spent at Zhujiajiao 朱家角. That Saturday, Yangzhou rained before my arrival and Shanghai poured after I left. The overcast sky made the summer heat less threatening.

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We visited Slender West Lake 瘦西湖 first. It’s YZ’s largest but it wasn’t crowded. Caroline and I walked along the skinny lake, it was very tranquil. The boats in the lake were all manned by young girls in uniform.
Back in the 18th century, the Emperor Qianlong was to come .. to please him, the wealthy salt merchants of Yangzhou patched up this white pagoda with salt over night. The day I was there, the pagoda was surrounded by shelves under going renovation. I didn’t see many cranes and exquisite maybe too early but YZ is trying hard to improve itself, and many places showed the progress while few places were eyesores. A new airport will soon be open, now 2 hours’ drive to Nanjing International Airport.
“This new five star hotel has just been opened.” Caroline explained as we were driving along the Grand Canal. I perked up and then saw the name:
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Ramada.
Ramada?
Five stars?
Shouldn’t the chain use a different name for its luxury line? What do I know.
Caroline is from Jinan, after graduated from college majored in English she took the job with Yangzhou government. Don’t know if she has the tour guide license (aspiring guides – mostly young girls – need to go to school and pass the exam to be licensed ..), she was adequate at it, perhaps has been doing it for a while. given the fact that she works at foreign affairs office.
If I remembered it right, the admissions from the public counts the bulk of the budget for Slender West Lake 瘦西湖.
Couple more gardens and short visit to the jade market, the Driver Zhao took me back to Zhenjiang train station. By then I was in no mood to wander around Zhenjiang but going back to Shanghai.


Oct 25 2010

Geyuan Garden 个园

Geyuan Garden 个园 in Yangzhou is one of four major/best gardens in China

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Geyuan Garden sits on the north of Dongguan Street in Yangzhou, was rebuilt by General Manager Huang Zhiyun, a salt industry official on a ruin in 1818. It has many bamboos in the garden. The bamboo leaves shape like the Chinese character 个 (Ge, indivudual) hence the name.

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Phyllostachys vivax f. aureocalis, N.X.Ma 黄秆鸟哺鸡竹
Bambusa multiples (Lour) Raeuschel 孝顺竹 (I like this name better)

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There are four small rockeries constructed with distinct colorations representing the four different seasons: 四季假山 Season Rockery.

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Oct 23 2010

Xiao Pangu 小盘谷

The Little Pangu Garden in Yangzhou was one of my GG Grandfather Zhou Fu’s residences. I first learned about it from my cousin Li Yanxing of Hengyang (Hunan Province) when I was researching MD Chow, her grandfather, around 2005. Over the years, we spoke sporadically and I finally got to visit the Little Pangu


Jun 8 2007

老照片:又有一个发现—-“小盘谷”

杨浪
2007年06月08日

我们确知这个地点在扬州,而且这里是“私人宅院”。这个地方解放后被辟为公园,但是暂时没有记载说明在上世纪初的两江总督周馥之后归何人所有。

“刘钢卷子”中有一张显影过度的片子清晰地表明拍摄地点是“小盘谷”。

查“百度”得知小盘谷位于扬州市丁家湾大树巷内。始建于清乾隆嘉庆年间,为光绪三十年(公元1904年)两江总督周馥的私人宅院。因为园内假山峰危路险,苍岩探水,溪谷幽深,石径盘旋,故名小盘谷。

小盘谷在扬州园林中有独到之处,与个园、何园相比,小盘谷占地很小,建筑物和山石也不多,但妙在集中紧凑,以少胜多,即小见大。水池、山石和楼阁之间,或幽深,或开朗,或高峻,或低平,对比鲜明,节奏多变,在有限的空间里,因地制宜,随形造景,产生深山大泽的气势,咫尺天涯,耐人寻味,这是其他园子所不能相比的。

小盘谷总体分为三部分,西部为平房住宅区,中部为一大厅,大厅右为一火巷,巷东即花园。花园分东西两部分,进园门,即为西园。园中有湖山颓石,旧名为“九狮图山”,因其山石外形如群狮探鱼而得名。山下有洞,洞出西口,有池水一泓,池上架石梁三折。池西一水阁凉厅,三面临水,山洞北口,临水设“踏步”,石上嵌“水流云在”。东西花园以走廊和花墙分隔,墙南一桃门,上题“丛翠”,进桃门为东园,园南有凉厅三间。整个园林是以小见大之手法中最杰出者。

于是我们确知这个地点在扬州,而且这里是“私人宅院”。这个地方解放后被辟为公园,但是暂时没有记载说明在上世纪初的两江总督周馥之后归何人所有。

请注意“刘钢卷子”里的以下几张:

这显然是和前一张在同一时间、同一环境内拍摄的。老太太带着孩子—-这不太象是来此游玩;而且此地和苏州狮子林(见http://chenyan.blshe.com/post/325/60791)一样在解放前并非公共游览地。

这一张:

怀疑图右的孩子与上一张内的孩子是同一人。

如果属实,那么民初住在扬州“小盘谷”里的人是谁呢?

.
_______________________________
2007/06/13, 00:22
浪总:
我在网上查到一条有用的文字,有关小盘谷的。文章作者的童年生活在小盘谷,他
(她)在那一直住到扬州解放,房东是一位周女士,据说是周馥的重孙女。如果是这样,小盘谷自周馥购下直到解放一直是周家所有。这个周家就是在中国政坛、商界、学界产生巨大影响的那个家族,二代出过周学海、周学熙,三代出过周叔弢、周叔迦,四代出过周一良、周绍良、周煦良等等。

小盘谷漫忆
http://service.gmw.cn/listMessage.jsp?forumID=1&threadID=29791

我与故乡的几处著名的园林都有一些缘份。拆迁之前的家就住在何园斜对过;上中学时,在个园里上过补习班;而小盘谷则是我童年居住过的地方。

小盘谷原是清光绪年间两江总督周馥的宅邸。正宅的东面是花园,西面是偏宅,由一条长长的火巷隔开。房舍结构极为严谨,是典型晚清风格的园林住宅。受“西风东渐”影响,偏宅里有些房间,装修成有落地百页窗的中西合璧样式;而花园“布局紧凑,精美自然”是运用“以小见大”、“以少胜多”中式造园手法的代表作。

在儿时的记忆里,那是一所很大的宅第,里头住着十几户人家,但是互相来往不多。仅有的几个小朋友到一起,总是不约而同地朝东花园里跑,幽静的花园里便响起银铃般的笑声。园子里有葱茏的草木,层叠的假山,逶迤的池塘,曲折的小桥,别致的亭阁,不管从那个角度看,都是一幅赏心悦目的图画。当时还不懂得欣赏什么美景,只知道花园里有无穷的乐趣,尤其在山洞里捉迷藏,玩得真是开心。自己一个人是不敢去钻假山的,因为祖母说洞里有大仙老太爷。每逢初一、十五她还去供奉鸡蛋。后来晓得那所谓的大仙不过是黄鼠狼,可是老人家不许我乱说,更不许我追打。园子里的黄鼠狼们,恐怕着实享用过几年我祖母和其他老太太的飨礼。如果去掉迷信的成份,排除对黄鼬的偏见,从爱护小动物的意义上说,那倒是一项善举。等到我能阅读《聊斋志异》时,尽管每每会看得害怕起来,却希望花园里能出现神秘的狐仙。希冀深深的宅院里,兴许会演绎出哀婉动人的故事。

小盘谷里的住户,全都是房客。房东是一位气度雍容的周女士,五十上下年纪,淡淡地描着眉,说话很文雅。房东不在这座宅子里住,她一来自然是为收房租。据说她就是周馥的重孙女。当我对这所大宅子发生兴趣时,通过家人从她那儿曾借来了四本木版线装书,书中记述了光绪年间,慈禧太后为两江总督周馥六秩诞辰祝寿的资料。宅第为慈禧所赐,书中对皇家赏赐均有图录,如慈禧手书“寿”字,亲绘梅花,光绪手书“福”字,及补服、朝珠、玉如意等重要礼品。正宅大厅里金漆雕匾上巨大的“寿”字曾给我留下一定的印象。在那本书中还收录了许多官员的贺信和礼单,其中一封,具名是“愚侄袁世凯顿首拜”,可见周馥当时也是朝廷炙手可热的人物。
不知道辛亥革命时,对清朝大员的家产是如何处置的,但这座宅子的所有权仍在周氏族人手里,似乎也可证明资产阶级革命的不彻底性。或许正由于此,这座名园才能近乎完好地保存到解放以后。
扬州解放不久,准备渡江南下的大军正在聚集。小盘谷里住满了部队,我家的堂屋里也住了一个班。他们借门板打地铺,总把天井打扫得干干净净,水缸挑得溜满,一直到出发,真个是秋毫无犯。有位班长常给我讲战斗故事,还送给我一张老区用的纸币。他们为了适应渡江作战,天天练浪木,把吃的东西全都呕吐掉了,但是士气很高昂。那位班长走后我很想念他,想象他打仗一定非常勇敢。他是我心目中解放军高大形象的代表,不知道他是否还健在,抑或早已血洒疆场。若干年后,我在军垦农场与转业官兵一起修理地球,自卫反击作战时作为武装民兵,与部队一起训练、巡逻,总有那位班长的影子在激励着我。
五十年代中期,这所巨宅被部队征用,所有的房客都搬了出去。从此就很少有机会进园子了,支边离开扬州,一别就是三十多年。几年前调了回来,曾进去拜访一位领导,才有幸重睹小盘谷昔日风采。遗憾的是作为省级文物保护单位,住宅部分因乱建乱隔,早已面目全非;花园里由于年久失修,也荒芜不堪。作为旅游资源,宅院因归属问题还在扯皮,至今未得开发。这座典雅的园林住宅终于衰颓了,它的兴衰史或许能发掘出一部清末迄今的长篇小说素材。