Writes of Passage

Bistro

A great wine tasting: good wines plus a story.

Michael Carpenter of Redd Collection is the owner of a wine store in Culver City, CA. One day in 2013 he received an order to ship 115 bottles of 2008 Varvaglione “Papale” Primitivo di Manduria. As he sloppily wrote the address, he realized it was the Vatican, home to the Pope, and some cardinals.

Pope Francis (1936-2025) was about to take the helm on March 13, 2013. (As usual, he died on the job. I’m wondering who actually rules the Vatican, toward the end of each Pope?)

The best part was when John, my first pickleball partner, donned a pope robe and came in … oh my!!

We tried four Varvaglione wines:

1. Chardonnay 2021, $25
2. Primitivo 12E Mezzo Salento 2020, $25
3. Salice Salentino 2017, $35
4. Primitivo D1 Manduria Papale 2021, $43

A wonderful wine tasting

酒好 故事更好

话说加州Culver City一店接到一单115 瓶2008 Varvaglione “Papale” Primitivo di Manduria的单. 店员抄写下地址后 发现 爱嘛 这不是梵蒂冈吗
嗯 是
2013年新教皇Pope Francis 登基
想送点什么给115个主教… 想到这酒
这115瓶也是够折腾的 来自意大利 南方的Varvaglione (酒庄成立于1912年) 在加洲没呆几天就打道回府.
一邻居是酒庄弟弟的娃 安排的这次品酒会

快结束时 临时教皇隆重亮相

It’s a Tuscany night, all about Sangiovese grapes, that also grow in Corsica, France, Napa CA, and Washington State.

I always enjoy a glass of Super Tuscan, which, simply put, has no DOC or DOCG rating.

The four wines are very similar, except #1 Ruffino’s Chianti Classico Riserva, which is decisively dry.

The retail prices for the wine

1. Ruffino, $32
2. Monsanto, $34
3. Rosso $27 – the best value
4. Barbi $69

Italian wine label ranking:

1. Vino da Tavola (VdT)
2. Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT): table wine
3. Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC)
4. Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG)

A “Super Tuscan” is a Tuscan wine that intentionally broke from Italy’s traditional classification rules—often by blending in non-native grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot and aging in French oak. Although many were once categorized simply as vino da tavola (table wine), they are now typically sold under the Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) designation. Super Tuscans are renowned for their high quality, complexity, and rich, full-bodied style.