Oct 2 2022

Iqaluit, Canada


From our balcony at 9:53pm on 2022.10.01 @ Baffin, Canada

Day 7: Iqaluit, means place of many fish, our first stop in Canada, after two days at sea, crossing Davis Strait.

Highlight of the day is aurora or northern light and seeing how hard the staff works; perhaps, the Hudson’s Bay Company.


Steve, one of the staff who drives the Zodiac 

On our way back to the ship, seeing Steve the kid wears so little, I ask if he feels cold.
“I’m soaking wet inside and out since this morning…”
The mother of me, thought oh lord, helps him or them … but then I thought again, he sure enjoys it: he relishes the moment, doesn’t he?

Live your dream, kid. And have fun while doing it.


We docked just as the sun rises. It’s 7am, the ship‘s time, which they changed during the Davis Strait crossin on Day 5 and 6 to Halifax. However, my iPhone insists its 6am (on auto change) and my laptop says 10am (I’ve no idea why …). It’s very confusing, if you need to make certain engagements. To solve it, I changed my iPhone from auto to manual, and to Halifax too.

Iqaluit is the capital of the Nunavut, part of Canadian territory. It’s largest community, and the only city. They have just built a new airport, that is serving about 100 flights a day! Small place like this, they’re promoting their tourism as well.

The native Inuit are an integral part of Iqaluit, a remote community at the head of Frobisher Bay. Once-considered the possible entrance of a Northwest Passage, the bay provides insight into Inuit history and culture including dog-sledding on handmade qamutik sleds led by qimmiiq – North America’s oldest and rarest purebred canine. Inuit artworks are showcased at Nunatta Sunakkutaangit Museum while Inuit history is evident at Crystal II, an ancient Thule Inuit settlement outside of Sylvia Grinnell Territorial Park.

It was known as Frobisher Bay from 1942 to 1987, after the large bay. In 1987, its traditional Inuktitut name was restored.

Our bus guide Jeff is a local, who said the government’s count of population is around 8,000 but he knew the actual figure is around 10,000. Our bus #6 drive Mike is a settler, who said he’d bad accident when he was 23 and that had changed his prospective. When his friend there offered him a job, he came. Shortly after, he married his boss’s daughter.

At the tourist office, I heard one of the two staff said, he just got a contract to work that came with $2.5 or $5 per hour raise. “I work overtime today, so it’s $7.50 per hour for me today.”

The church and school.

We did a little walk on their beach (… thanks to their mud boots … ha ha ha), in front of the Hudson’s Bay Co.; and at their park

Lunch was provided by the bus / land operator – they gave each of us a huge brown bag, that consisted: a bottle of water and an orange juice, fruit box, salad box, a sandwich and a bag of potato chips. This is just way too much.

Dinner – the girl is really sweet who sees me doing my braid, so she does it too and calling me mommy -:)

Afternoon tea: the sundried tomato quiche hits the spot.


Oct 2 2022

Lady Franklin & Monumental islands


11:08am on 2022.10.02, Monumental Island 

Day 8: our 2nd day in Canada, scheduled to hop around two islands on Zodiac.

However, the water is too rough to set out on the Zodiac, so our AM excursion to Lady Franklin Island is cancelled.

Monumental Island @ 2pm: the advance/scouting team went ahead and reported back that the condition is more sporty than one feels comfortable and there is no wild life, SO this excursion is also cancelled.

Another day at sea.

The sunset at 6:37pm and the aurora at 10:03pm 

More lectures. Sarah recommended two books: Michael Palin’s Erebus: The Story of a Ship (2019), and Geiger & Mitchell’s Franklin’s Lost Ship (2015)

… why is everyone so obsessed with Franklin anyway?

  1. everyone loves a mystery … Great unsolved mysteries in Canadian history”
  2. England had a lot invested in finding the Northwest Passage
  3. Lady Jane Franklin was a master at 19th century social media
  4. lots of intrigue surrounding who made what discoveries; attributed to Robert McClure in 1850, but really it was John Rae in 1848…

Ok, it’s food time …

Dinner: the Spanish wine Altado, scallop ceviche, cream of artichoke soup, Chateaubriand of beef, AND the sticky toffee pudding, which is heaven. It’s someone’s birthday

Afternoon tea: Boston cream cake is light, and caramel cake is chewy and delicious, lamington squares are coated with coconut is ok.

Lunch has crab legs and curry. The naan bread isn’t fluffy – rather dead – maybe the oven is different on the ship? The lentil soup is wonderful, with ginger.

We had our breakfast in the room, due to the sea sickness – I’m fine but my better half isn’t; and I got to have mine in the balcony.